Winter Begins | Day 5: Fourth Day The Cabin

If I remember correctly, I think it was me that asked asked out loud about the vehicles and if we were switching it up again. Who’s riding in which vehicle? I genuinely thought about each of us getting a chance to ride with our host and picking his brain over the experience thus far. Especially because I didn’t want to be “that person” to hog the opportunity. But I also didn’t want to seem like I was hogging the space of the vehicle I liked most to include its driver (Yes, Dory was now my favorite vehicle to ride in). It’s nice to ride shotgun in Siggi’s ride and the conversations were enjoyable, when I wasn’t staring off at the landscape in awe. It was my way of asking if anyone else wanted the opportunity to ride up front. There was a consensus about switching up who rode in a particular vehicle, on that same note, I don’t think many of us cared since we were all going to the same place.

The female American photographer was not too happy about hearing about the vehicle switch. As a matter of fact she was very upset immediately approaching Siggi, directly pointing me out as the person that said we had to switch vehicles. She whined a bit about it. The photographer from Australia chimed in and agreed saying, “Yes, let’s switch it up a bit”. The female American photographer left in a huff and announced that her equipment was already in Siggi’s vehicle and that is where it is going to stay. Shrug…Okay (insert emoji here! LOL)…

I regretted asking about the switch as I didn’t think it would cause such an uproar from one person (Siggi’s Dory is not only rugged, but super comfortable; imagine if you will, cruising in a leather recliner). I didn’t think it warranted the emotional response the inquiry received, but c’est la vie, you can’t make everyone happy.

It appears that I disrupted the plans of the female American photographer by asking. She was upset to a point where she pushed passed me several times throughout the day. Don’t mess with no one’s comfort! Haha! I should have just fended for myself to avoid the “controversy” of switching vehicles for the day. I look back and laugh at the situation in good spirits. It’s pretty hilarious when you think about it and it was not my intention.

In the end I rode shotgun in Dory, again. Smiles! The female American photographer sat behind Siggi, driver side cab, again. The Swiss photographer sat in the middle cab and the French photographer sat behind me, passenger cab.

We drove for several hours and then heard Benjamin over the radio announce that there were some horses to the left of us. Oh! More horses! We pulled over. Siggi informed us that the female American photographer did not get any pictures the last time we stopped to take pictures of the horses. Then she chimed in, saying that she was so into petting the horses the last time, that she didn’t take any photos. In the mean time we all sat in our vehicles chatting and chewing delicious dried lamb sticks waiting for her to get as many images as she wanted. In the end she said she answered that she still didn’t get the image of the horses that she wanted.

We continued on driving for several hours until we reached a cabin in what seemed like the middle of no where. It appeared that there was no one for miles except the lone guy we saw on a snowmobile. We were miles and miles, hours away from where we started, so I was surprised to see him out there by himself. Nonetheless I was excited!

This cabin location is our back up plan, we are told, in case we are not able to get to the intended cabin further out. Wait! There’s more ahead? I could only imagine that the longer drive would only produce more images more beautiful than previous stops. Honestly I was in a dreamlike state. This dream could go on and on and I would be content.

This place we stopped is also our lunch spot! We were hungry and this was nice to hear!

Siggi fired up the grill putting on both veggie and meat hotdogs. While we waited for the food to cook most of us scattered off to take advantage of the scenery and shoot it.

I saw this house, that turned out to be an outhouse. I walked down to it thinking about photographing it and of course using this as an opportunity to go, but decided that I could wait to use the toilet.

Highlands Outhouse I captured just after we landed

I found the house interesting to photograph. The wood held up to subzero conditions. There were small chips of paint pulled back, exposing the materials underneath. The sun was high and hard, but I still thought what a great image this would be as it beat down on the structure. I took a picture of the door handle to the building as it was covered in ice and snow. I don’t know. I thought I could get a cool image out of it. Meh, they were only okay. I also used the building for blocking in my landscape images. Those images were not the best because of the hard light.

As I stood next to building I looked out over the vast plane of land. I noted the mountains in the distance. Even though the rest of the team was several hundred feet away, I felt the silence out there. It was a different kind of quiet. A solitude. Very peaceful. I stood staring out for what seems like hours but was more likely only several minutes. I was completely relaxed. I took a few more images and walked up to the other cabin where everyone else waited, as the food should almost be cooked by now.

Once the hotdogs were nice and toasty (some a little too well done, the way I like it) Siggi showed us how to make an Icelandic style hotdog. It was fun watching his enthusiasm and how he made an experience out of it for us to remember. Putting one condiment down, then some fried onions then the ketchup, another condiment and then mustard. I forget the name of the other two condiments, but by far the best hotdog I’ve ever had in Iceland! I’ve never been out in the bitter cold enjoying a hotdog like this. We enjoyed the moment. The sun was helping us warm up and the winds were low as we ate. I forgot how cold it was. I was warm and fuzzy inside.

After we’ve all had our fill, Siggi began packing up the grill noting that there were some veggie hotdogs still unspoken for. We then realized that we have not heard from the female American photographer. She was still off photographing somewhere. Siggi made two hotdogs for her and set them aside for when she returned, concerned that it would be cold if she did not return sooner. He then packed up the grill and all other equipment. 

There was a lone veggie hotdog that Eydis tried her hardest to eat, even though she was full from eating previously. Kudos to her for trying. She hoped not to let it go to waste. Alas it was just too much. Benjamin picked it up, joking about what an interesting way one would eat a hotdog (Eydis bit off both ends leaving the center untouched). It was cute and funny. Benjamin saved the day and finished it.

We waited for a bit, with no sign of the female American photographer. We knew she was fine, just wondered if she realized how long she was away from the group. Suddenly she appeared. Benjamin mentioned that we needed to get going as we still have a few hours trek ahead of us. Siggi pulled out the food he prepped and saved for the female American photographer and approached her with it. She said she wasn’t hungry. Benjamin looked at Siggi and then back at her, he was concerned that the next time we would have a full meal would be at dinner. She assured everyone that she was fine and not hungry. The hotdogs went into the back of Dory. We loaded up and took off.

We drove for hours across an arctic tundra of subzero temperatures. The landscape was blanketed in white with pink, blue and lavender on the horizon. Black specks of volcanic rock peaked from the ground, adding to the mystery of the formidable terrain. I kept thinking about how grateful I was to have this opportunity.

The Highlands is also where I learned the true definition of vehicle fording. We crossed several rivers without skipping a beat days before, but today there was a lot of ice and snow and the rivers were a little deeper here in the Highlands.

I sat silent with a front row view of the path before us. As I scanned the snow and ice covered landscape ahead, I realized that we were also probably driving over a frozen lake or river and could go crashing through it any second. I’m afraid I was not much the conversationalist because I was in the zone. Soaking up this beautiful vastness around us as well as wondering about the water that sat beneath the ice we trekked.

Dory leads the way

I looked over at Siggi as he scanned the terrain ahead. He was very relaxed and alert. We are safe, I smiled to myself. Then the front end of Dory suddenly sinks down into the snow and we hear water splash. I lean a little forward in my seat and then look out the side window. Yep! We’ve broken through the ice and we are partially submerged. Siggi reverses Dory and manages to back her out a bit. We all exit the vehicle and we see that beneath all the ice and snow, just how much water there is. I then ask if we are on like a frozen lake or something. You know because I was just wondering. No concerns here right?! In all calmness and matter of fact, Siggi confirms that we are. I’m not concerned, surprisingly. I have this feeling that Siggi has managed to get himself out of worse conditions. Benjamin backs the Beast up to Dory. A rope is introduced and the Beast ends up pulling Dory out of it. We all hop back in and continue on. Fun little adventure, within the adventure.

At one point, the road seemed impassible. We stop. Siggi and Benjamin walked up ahead to see if it was something we should attempt. It appears that a huge snow drift covered our intended path and they were looking for a way over or around it. The rest of us used this time to take some images.

We took pics of each other in addition to the landscape. I took some of both the French and Swiss photographers. I wished that I had worked more on shooting human subjects so that I could work with the proper settings after looking at my images. I showed them both the images I took of them, feeling impressed with myself.

Then something super cool happened. The French photographer took some images of me using an 85mm lens. He showed it to me. I was speechless. This guy is very talented. He knows what he’s doing. I let him know that I could only hope to be able to shoot like him. I asked him to show me how he captured me. He showed me teaching me about the right type of lenses that worked best and how I should focus and where I should focus. He was super patient and relaxed. He didn’t have to show me anything nor tell me anything, but he did. We were all on our own time. We were there to get our own images. I have to say, it really added to the experience having the team we had. I felt very fortunate. Remember, I’m still kind of new at this.

Benjamin and Siggi walked back after surveying the road before us. They decided to go for it. It was an adventure, why not?

At one point we went up over a giant hill or we can say a little mountain. Siggi had to make several attempts. We finally made it up and over. Benjamin’s Beast followed in our trail and made it the first try.

We continued on our drive. Night came. The moonlight and the white snow (along with the high beams of both vehicles guided us). We run into another little adventure. Up ahead, there was deeper river to ford, but we couldn’t just drive through it. This required a little more work to functionally maneuver through.

Siggi asked for help from both the French and Swiss photographer in our ride. He radioed to Benjamin about our dilemma and Thorstienn and the male America photographer met up with our vehicle. The plan is to break the ice in front of us just before the river so that both vehicles could enter it safely.

I wanted to help in any way I could, asking the guys if they were tired and to let me take over. Chivalry is not dead! Each told me that they could continue on as they drove metal poles and shovels into the ice. I really wanted to help more than anything but I think I was just like a fly buzzing around. I thought to myself to just get out of the way and let them do what are doing. Regardless I stood outside the vehicle keeping watch to help out immediately, should anything unexpected happen. The team work, professionalism of Siggi and Benjamin and the determination was by far the best I’ve ever witnessed.

We finally forded the river after much ice breaking and continued on to our destination. Siggi played some traditional Icelandic music for a bit and then asked if anyone else wanted to play something. No one responded so I offered up my music warning everyone that my taste was pretty diverse and “out there”. I listen to electronica, rock, dub-techo, hipster alternative and death metal. They all seemed pretty game.

During the first song I played, the female American photographer asked me to lower the music. I did, agreeing with her that it may have been a little too loud switching from Siggi’s music to mine. I played electronica at this point. The song played on and she asked me again to lower it more. Sure thing! I lowered it more. Then I asked her if it was still too loud that I could lower it again and the photographer from Switzerland interrupted saying he would actually like to hear the music and that lowering anymore would prevent him from hearing it. The photographer from France chimed in and responded that the audio level did not bother him. We passed the time listening to music.

As we approached the cabin, I soon learned that we were actually on another frozen lake and that it was a little deeper than the rivers we crossed earlier, as Dory went down again. The water was crystal clear with a gorgeous blue color to it. The headlights from Dory illuminated the water with a magnificent glow. I was in awe at its clarity. It was exciting to see just how prepared Benjamin and Siggi were for this situation. There was a plan B and C for everything we experienced.

In the mean time, the photographers from Switzerland and France were sent ahead to help with prepping the cabin for entry while Siggi and Benjamin pulled Dory from the icy waters that was now swallowing her front tires. Yay! We were close to our final destination for the evening.

Not quite sure how this happened but at one point we were inside the cabin and the next thing we know, we are locked out. Both the photographer from Australia and I searched for an open window to get in. He also attempted entry into the small frozen shed in the back. We weren’t locked out for too long. Good news! Siggi saved the day again managing to get us in.

We loaded in. This massive wood-burning style stove was heated and dinner preparations began. I was sooooooooo cold. We all were at first. The French and the male American photographer and I stood my an electric heater shivering and bonding over the day. Eventually dinner was served and we all chatted and got to learn more about each other.

That night ended with us capturing the Aurora. It was not as vibrant but it was there and we caught it! It was 12:03am. Benjamin, the male American photographer and myself remained outside snapping away. We sat patiently as Aurora changed its form. The amount of it was enough to capture a beautiful image of it and the cabin we camped in.

The silence, being in the middle of everything that is beautiful, made the moment that more special to me. It reminded me of the first time I ever saw it. It was in Iceland in Reykjavìk to be exact with one of my favorite friends in the world. He captured it and told me how to do it. I thought back to that moment and remembered what he showed me.

I was in a trance just looking about me. Staring up at the beautiful night sky. So many stars out! After a while I felt my fingers burning realizing that my pointers and thumbs were still exposed (I wore photography gloves). Not a smart thing as they both felt numb and in pain at the same time. I finally packed up my gear and went inside and got ready for sleep.

Sometime in the middle of the night I had to go outside and use the outhouse (no bathroom inside). I didn’t want to wake the others with the noise from my coat or snow-pants (and it would only be a few minutes) so I just threw on my boots and went out in the subzero temps with just my base layer on. On my walk back to the cabin I saw small tracks that appeared to be from an arctic fox! I followed it as far as I safely could. The little guy walked all around the cabin. I wished that I had my camera on me and thought about running back to get my camera and returning to hopefully find it. I returned instead and went back to sleep.

The day was adventurous and exciting. Looking forward to tomorrow!

Please forgive the typos! :)

Winter Begins | Day 4: Third Day Crampons!

It is around 8:00am and I’ve just finished breakfast. Instead of my usual morning routine, I stroll outside to get a feel of the land around us. There are black pebbles coating the ground outside, some are locked in to ice. The sun is rising in the distance, but it’s still darker out that I am used to.

I rush back inside so I can grab my camera to capture the horizon. There are blues, oranges and beige swirling in the sky. I also see horses in the distance so I photograph them. The female American photographer joins me. We are both excited to see them.

I check out what I’ve shot and I feel like my images fall flat. I’m not too impressed with them. I should have used my 24-105mm/4.0, but instead I’ve attached my 35mm/1.2. I thought to rush back inside to swap lenses but when I look back at the entrance of Midgard Basecamp, I see some of the other photographers placing their gear outside by Benjamin’s Beast. Time to load up and roll out!

We switch up the rides again and (well most of us any way). I ride in Benjamin’s Beast. The photographer from Australia rides shotgun again, with Eydis riding passenger driver side, the Swiss photographer is riding “bitch” as I affectionately tease him, and I ride passenger rear. For those of you who don’t know, "riding bitch" is an “American expression, denoting sitting between two other people in a car or truck, where the transmission housing often forms a hump in the front or back analogous to a pillion”.

Quite ironically the photographer from Switzerland has the best seat in the house with regards to the rear seating and over all, as a photographer. It seems it was his plan from the beginning to sit there. I am impressed as I learn something new everyday. He has a birds eye view to shoot and film Benjamin navigating the terrain, while capturing some amazing backseat images from the center of the vehicle. Since he is also very tall, he also has plenty of room to extend his long legs. (So, I learn quite a bit about “riding bitch”). It explains why he looked at me puzzled when I first said it. After I explain what it means to him, he laughs. This is obviously a “glass half full kind of guy.” Always a positive, optimistic, with personality and lots of energy when he speaks.

Onward to Solheimjökull Glacier! Yes, the beautiful hot spot is where we are headed but I get the feeling that this visit will not be like your basic tourist hike. On our way there we stop at a horse farm to capture images. Alas, the female American photographer gets her wish. We spend a good amount of time there petting the horses and capturing them. One of the horses approaches me and I get excited. Suddenly it lunges its head forward at me and starts chewing on one of the elastic draw strings on my pants. Here, I’m thinking, I’m like a horse whisperer and the horse approached me because it just wanted to say hello because we have some kind of connection. Ha!

I capture some images of the male American photographer petting the horses. To my surprise, he jumped the fence and immersed himself into the herd. That was both funny and awesome! The nerves of him! Wished I did it too! I got a few good shots of him with them, but I also wanted to get just the horses, as our time here is running short.

Unfortunately, I am not experienced enough to frame up better shots at this point, so internally I grow a little frustrated because the female American photographer keeps standing in the shot of the two horses I want capture. She pets them the whole time. I know how much she kept talking about wanting to capture them in the right light, so I didn’t want to interrupt her connection petting them. Maybe she is warming them up to get her shot? They are so close to me and I am in the perfect spot to capture them. I realize that we will be heading out soon, so I need find other contrasting horses to capture and not get stuck on this particular shot. I fire off a few more shots of a different group of horses in the distance, knowing that I will have other opportunities to capture Icelandic horses; if not on this expedition, on another visit to Iceland.

I am overwhelmed with being so close to the horses and seeing just how beautiful they are. It reminds me of when I used to ride all of the time, every weekend, taking lessons to maybe play polo one day. I had to stop because of my accident. Being this close though, really put a huge smile on my face; it brings back fond memories.

Icelandic horses

I think everyone got a good amount of images of the beautiful horses. I see the images from both the photographers from France and Switzerland and they both have eyes for nature photography. You could reproduce prints and hang them in any kind of house. Beautiful and creative compositions. I check my “roll” to see if I got any impressive shots. I see potential in a couple of images, so I am content. It seems that everyone took some amazing images. We’ll later find out that this did not quite happen for everyone.

Into to the vehicles and on to Solheimjökull! I scan the landscape during our drive, occasionally filming mountainous drive-bys, along with taking images of Benjamin in the rearview mirror as he drives. The photographer from Austrailia takes a picture of Eydis, who is completely knocked out. Her head is completely back and her mouth is open. If I realized what he was doing sooner, capturing her in such a compromised position, I may have blocked the photo. Haha! It was kind of funny and cute though. They have a joking relationship, so no harm done. She’s also very photogenic so, she didn’t look too awkward.

When we arrive, we all receive crampons. I wore similar ones the last time I did this hike a few years ago. I notice that Siggi is wearing a furrowed brow as he untangles some walking poles. He then hands a set of the walking poles to both me and the other female American Photographer. I was a little disappointed in myself for struggling yesterday on the second hike. I knew this was Siggi’s way of ensuring my safety though. As for the other female American photographer, lagging on the first two hikes and sitting out the last hike, no chances were taken. Again, safety first.

I personally find the poles cumbersome and I feel like it’s a distraction for me, as I want to make sure my crampons don’t catch on each other, but I don’t protest. I end up not using the poles, but that doesn’t mean that next time I won’t need them. I hold them both in one hand and keep up with the pack in ease, as Siggi leads us onward. Benjamin keeps up the rear.

The view of the glacier in front of us is quite beautiful. It’s sad to hear about the increasing erosion. A few years ago, I hiked this glacier and remembered seeing more of it. This time, there was more black volcanic sand everywhere!

As we approach the top of the glacier, there were hints of blue in the ice. I get excited!

Solheimjökull Glacier

Let ‘em loose! As we get to the top, each photographer moved with careful speed catching their eye’s version of a shot. We are warned about which spots to avoid during our safety briefing. In the mean time Siggi and Benjamin assess the safety condition of the ice and a possible descent into an ice cave (more like a large crevasse). 

After about forty-five minutes we are wrangled and asked if we’d want to rappel down into the crevasse. They also instructed us that we would have to ice climb out. We all excitingly agree.

One by one we rappel down. I believe I am the fourth down. I’ve rappelled before, but it’s been a while and I am a little nervous, for no reason it turns out. Peace of cake; so much so that by the time I hit the bottom, one of the other photographers had to let me know that I could stand up. It’s definitely all about the journey. This trip was all personalized for us to get the best out of this experience.

I look up an around. Tall walls of ice shielding us from the world. It is beautiful! Everywhere I look is like a gem. It’s hard twists and turns, a mashup of ice blue, baby blue, Caribbean blue and what I call Icelandic blue, is everywhere. Black volcanic sand and white ice marries the colors. I get my shot!

The first morning together, Benjamin asked us what we would like to capture and he made it happen for me on Day 3. I was stoked an in awe of the landscape around me. I wondered if it got better than this on this expedition. Would I capture anything more beautiful?

We stay for what feels like several hours, capturing various parts of the beautiful glacial sculptures. There is a curvy nook just around the corner of the area ice wall we rappelled down. I take several images of it. The male American photographer climbs up in it, so I was able to get a few more with him inside it. He appeared to be firing back shots of me too. I can’t wait to see them. The other photographers take images of the ice cave along with some images of the other photographers. I also get some great shots of Benjamin, Thorstienn, and both photographers from Switzerland and Australia. We had fun!

There is the climb up and out. Siggi shows us how to use our crampons as well as two ice axes, one for each hand to climb. It’s similar to rock climbing in that you need to rely on your legs while keeping your pelvis towards the wall. You must refrain from using your arms to pull you up.

This metallic looking image is ice that I’ve captured. So beautiful!

The Australian photographer climbs the same wall we rappelled down. Something like 30 meters. He climbs up and out like a pro. Then Benjamin tries. While he is not as successful, the Swiss photographer manages to get half way up. Were it not for his arms tiring, he likely would have made the climb as well. 

As we watch the gents climb, the female American photographer approaches me and asks me, “They’re going to pull us out right?” I’m surprised to hear this question and I inform her that we are climbing out the same way, with picks and crampons. Some of us may be climbing the higher wall but the rest of us will likely climb the shorter wall. She gasps and asks when was someone going to tell her. I let her know that it was announced when Benjamin and Siggi came back from scouting, we all seemed to be there, but I believe she may have been off somewhere still taking pictures.

We all then take our turn climbing the shorter wall; it’s maybe about 20 meters. Eydis and I climb along side each other with me climbing the more difficult part of the wall. My guts tell me to wait until she is finished and climb the side of the wall where she is, but then I also welcomed the challenge. Where I’m climbing, part of the ice juts out meaning I will need to kind of lean back in order to get over that hump. More seasoned climbers would be able to easily overcome it with no issue. The photographer from Switzerland took the same route and made it look so easy just ahead of us.

I struggle while Eydis climbs her side of the wall like a champ. I think at the back of my mind that I know it is a big challenge for me and that I have no experience, but I hoped to surprise myself and climb it without any issue. I then opt to wait and climb the same route Eydis takes after several failed attempts.

Unfortunately for my ego, Siggi also decides to add an additional line to my halter to hoist me up in case I have any trouble with my climb. Again safety is important, so my pride takes a back seat. I’m fine. I actually out-climb Siggi’s hoisting and hear shouts from my remaining fellow photographers along with Benjamin cheering me on, as I climb pretty fast. I knew I could do it! I’ll admit my ego was a little bruised for a few seconds but I redeemed it. I wish that someone captured the image of me climbing.

If I remember correctly, one of the last few to climb up is Benjamin, who attempts the side of the wall I previously tried, with the female American photographer climbing next to him where Eydis and I previously climbed. Siggi gives her an additional rope to hoist her up as she climbs. Both are successful of course.

The hike down is quick and fun. I was just behind Eydis and Siggi, who led the pack. The trek back is simple as long as you use your crampons correctly. It’s tricky when it comes to hills. There were areas that we had to climb down. Not properly bending your knees and locking your crampons into the ice could be very risky and dangerous. We all eventually make it down without incident.

I have to say, while I’m pointing out the disappointment with the additional rope and the walking poles, that’s all ego on my part. Siggi acted very responsibly and left nothing to chance every step of the way, during the entire expedition. There were a number of times where I told him that I felt comfortable and safe as he guided us, even as Dory plunged into the depths of the rivers we forded. That was sooooooo amazing!

That night the kitchen is closed at Midgard Basecamp, so we end up eating at this really fun spot called Valhalla Restaurant and Saga Center that also offers axe throwing. There is a group of visiting Italians throwing axes upon our arrival. 

My prize. Benjamin really liked this one. I get my shot!

Our crew enters the restaurant to order drinks and wait on our table. I end up conversing with the Italians to try to get a throw in,  as well as practice speaking Italian with them. My Italian is not bad, but it is a good thing two of them speak some English. I’m at a loss for words at one point and we switch to English to finish our conversation. They invite me to throw in place of one of their friends. I miss miserably, only twice coming close to getting my axe to stick.

I head over to where my crew is and order my meal. We dine on ribs, burgers and veggie sandwiches. This time I opt for the veggie sandwich wishing that I got the burger. It was a long day and meat protein would have been optimum for me. Thorsteinn asks me how I like my sandwich. He also got the veggie sandwich which he really enjoyed.

After our meal, a few of us try axe throwing. Thorsteinn was definitely a pro. Flawlessly hitting the mark each time. Siggi was successful as well. Then there was the Australian photographer. Not only did he amaze us all with his skill in ice climbing, but he also nailed it with the axe throwing.

I have to give it one more go. I have to land that axe. I try again and again and again but can not get the axe to land. Then Siggi calmly tells me to use both hands to throw it (I’m only using one). Sure I’ll try it! The room gets quiet or at least I didn’t hear a thing; just the dull blade cutting through the air as I launched it over my head, releasing both hands. It felt like everything moved in slow motion. The sound of the axe cutting into the wood and sticking seemed so flawless to me. I looked back at Siggi who had a huge smile on his face along with everyone cheering! I did it! That was enough for me, the one try. I moved out of the way to let someone else have at it. Some of us were successful and some tried unsuccessfully. Some just watched and filmed those throwing the axe with their iPhone. You never know what you’ll get if you don’t try.

After a long day, many of us decide to soak in the hot tub for a second night. The moon looked full. It is bitter cold but we don’t care. Eydis, Benjamin, the Australian photographer, Thorsteinn and I enjoy another night in the tub. We sit laughing most of the time because of the fart noise it makes. Lovely. This is a time I will always remember. This day is a good day.

Later that evening, we sit for our very first editing session on our own images. Benjamin goes around the room looking at some of what we have captured, stating that he is impressed by the work we’ve all turned out. I’m pleased to hear this. He then takes his time sitting with each one of us as we edit a photo in Lightroom answering our questions and guiding us.

It was a good day and a good night.

UP NEXT: Day 4 Good-bye Midgard Basecamp…for now!

Winter Begins | Day 3: Second Day The Two Hikes

The plan last night was for an early breakfast and for us to meet around 8:00-8:30AM. Another exciting day ahead of us. After getting dressed, I head to the restaurant. Most of the other photographers were already eating. I see the female American photographer who is making her breakfast in the kitchen and say hello as I start to make my breakfast. I ask her how she is doing and if she slept well. She returned the hello and replied that she felt good and slept well. We made some small talk about the jam options and the sweet bread offered for breakfast. We then join the others in the dinning room of the restaurant.

Everyone spoke a little more about themselves and we learned a little about where we were going today.

This time I’m in Siggi’s sweet ride, Dory. Yes, I said sweet! I ride shotgun, with Thorsteinn and our French and female American photographers riding rear cab. It is definitely an impressive ride and I was completely swayed because of how Siggi handled it. The seats were super comfy, almost like a recliner. I also had an amazing view with its wide windshield!

One of our first stops is to Eyafjallajökull Glacier. The name sounds familiar because it is also the name of the infamous volcano that erupted in 2010 causing the largest air-traffic control shut down in Europe ever. Flights were grounded for about a week. This was our first hike. It was well paced and comfortable.

I had taken a long break from my heavy physical activity because of a previous accident, so I was not in my optimum shape. I used to run 3-5 miles a day, 5-7 days a week but this stopped. I wasn’t concerned. I was in rather basic shape from doing exercises from a few years of physical therapy. I also now have an average fitness level. Meaning I could handle hiking. It was not a strenuous nor an aggressive hike in any way and my legs were able to carry me just fine. As a matter of fact I was pleased that I was not out of breath and made it to the top, not seeing one but two breathtaking views.

We photographed Thorsmörk Valley on one side as well as the beautiful overflowing Eyafjallajökull Glacier on the other.

Benjamin gives us a challenge to photograph wind. I photograph the water as the wind hits it. You can see it each time because the small glacial lake below is still when the wind isn’t blowing. I also photograph the restraining straps on Thorstienn’s backpack, both Eydis’ and the female American photographer’s hair blowing in the wind, as well as the grass as it gently falls forward.

We’re here for a while and I noted the storm clouds in the distance. It’s getting a bit colder. We hike down the mountain. The view is beautiful. I especially appreciate seeing the water trails (I’m sure there is another word for it) in the distance and the beautiful patterns it forms.

The second hike.

The second hike is a doozie! Not all of us make the this hike. Lagging behind on the first hike, the female American photographer decides to sit this one out back at the LavaGrill, where we dined for lunch after our first hike. They served up lamb soup, vegetarian soup and salad with an array of breads. It hit the spot. I should have used this opportunity to eat an Oak King bar.

The hike starts off simple enough. We trek through a beautiful “forest” of barren trees that in my opinion, are hauntingly beautiful. I snag an image of our descent on my iPhone asking the guys in front of me to look back. Our French photographer is the only one that does with his kind smile. I think the others are assessing the climb ahead and probably did not hear me.

I feel comfortable at first. I thought this would be a piece of cake like the previous hike. But as the hike continues on, my pace begins to slow down. Each time I look up, I think to myself that we will finally reach our destination. Huge mistake. I look around and see just how high up in elevation we are. The vision was beautiful. I realize soon that I have more hiking to do. There is always another level to reach as the climb gets steeper.

At one point I go off the path, climbing higher off to the right, thinking that the path I’m on is the right one. It appears to me that the group of photographers ahead of us took this path. Then Benjamin, Eydis and a couple of the other photographers, as they pass me below, were kind enough to point out that I’ve strayed. This is when Siggi fell back from leading us and Benjamin and his group caught up with the rest.

I’m grateful that Siggi stood by me as I fell back. More so, the disappointment grows within me. I didn’t want to be that person that we all had to wait on. I didn’t want to miss out on that view that I’m working so hard to see. I tell myself that no matter what, I will complete this hike. 

As the terrain grow steeper, along with my breaths, I climb in spurts and rest. It feels nice to do it this way but I also think that it makes the hike take longer. I can see Siggi studying me closely with concern. But I remained positive and optimistic that I will reach the top. I start hiking at full speed and taking rests here and there. Each milestone in my head I reach, I looked about me and marvel at how high up we are. The view is nothing short of incredible.

In a calm voice, Siggi begins talking me through a more functional way of getting to the top; it will keep me moving. Rather than hiking in spurts and resting he suggests that I slow my pace, using each step as a short resting step. I try it and it totally works! What was I thinking before? I learned pacing as a long distance runner so this made sense to me. Before I know it, we are at the top and there is just enough light to get some breathtakingly amazing images. The snow by then is also coming down in chunks. It’s really dumping on us. I enjoy every moment of it. Thanks Siggi!

Then Siggi does something amazing. Being an avid climber, he treks up ahead and perches himself on top of a peak for an amazing photo opportunity. The snow is heavy and coming down quite rapidly, but he does not skip a beat. I don’t think I’ve ever met anyone so confident, daring and upbeat all in one breath, as to brave weather, ice, cliffs and mud all at once, just so that we could take such an awesome photo. Siggi’s red jacket stands out amongst the dark lull of the peak he stands atop. I snag some photos of the other photographers as they photograph Siggi with his headlamp aglow in the distance.

I made it to the top.

Once we all get our killer shots, it’s time to turn on our headlamps on and head down. It’s pitch dark. There is mud everywhere and it was quite slippery. Siggi stayed behind and let the others walk ahead to focus on getting me safely down the mountain.

I follow Siggi down, holding on to his shoulder while the male American photographer is behind me. At first I think that he just wanted to take his time to safely get himself back down, but I soon realize that he is also helping Siggi help me. He’s taking up the rear. Wow! I think to myself. How awesome and thoughtful.

I slip and I slide, tripping once on a rock, but I immediately get my footing and I am grateful Siggi is here to hold on to. He’s solid in his stance and with his walk. I didn’t get mud on my gloves from catching my fall, but there is mud up and down my pant legs. Thank goodness for these weatherproof pants.

Before my trip I was trying to figure out the best pair of pants to get since 90 percent of my clothing is in storage. Then I remembered that my sister had a pair of my Northface shell pants. They were perfect. Warm and waterproof. They are about 8 years old too maybe more! I was grateful she still had them. My windbreaker was wet though.

We finally reach the LavaGrill and it is warm and cozy inside. There is a pile of outerwear, gear and shoes by the door. I take off my shoes and head straight to the restroom to clean up. My feet are warm and surprisingly dry even after all of that rain, mud and snow. (By the time we got to the bottom of the mountain, it was raining.) Even though it was my first time trying them, I purchased what claimed to be waterproof socks from Sealskinz. I’m extremely happy with that investment! I rinse the mud off my pants, clean up any mess I make in the bathroom and I rest. After about a half an hour or so, we head back to Midgard Basecamp.

I was especially pleased with the second hike because I was pushed both physically and mentally, with an opportunity to see just how far I could push myself and overcome the challenge. Experiences like this is what makes this expedition for me. It really is more about the journey. Anyone can just travel somewhere and take beautiful pictures.

It’s quite relaxing to be back at Midgard Basecamp. We are all hungry. Burgers and fries again. Craved and well received! I almost order the lamb, but we had lamb stew for lunch.

After dinner, Siggi the female photographer and I remain chatting at the table. Siggi asks me about my life outside of photography and I tell him about my freelancing in television and about SPACE ALIENS, BAD MOTHERS, AND GUNS! These are novels that I write with my sister. He seems intrigued. He says that he always wondered how writers can just come up with stories and wondered if I write about what I personally experience. I tell him this was not exactly the case. There can be a split moment of time where a bird is flying above and it crosses the path of the sun. The imagery is how I generate stories. As a matter of fact I already have a story in my head just from watching him by his truck. It was the way he looked up and around. That scene. The story is not about him but the look on his face inspired it. The female American photographer chimes in and tells me she loves that I don’t only write about myself like most writers and happy to hear that I write about other people and things. A little awkward, I think to myself.

Siggi then asks me where he could find my books. I let him know where and that I also had a convention coming up in Japan with my sister. He seems pretty excited to hear this. He asks how and admits that he likes to hear about the writing process. I think to myself that maybe he hopes write about his adventures. They sound exciting to me.

Siggi off in the distance and the Winter Begins photographers

Our exchange goes on until the female American photographer interjects and tells us about a small book fair they have where she lives and knows the person who manages it and could get my sister and I into it if we’d like. She even offers to put us up. I smile and I thank her. It was nice of her to offer.

I ask Siggi about his trip to Nepal and compliment how active he was. He seems to be the adventurous jet-setter. He then tells us about his experiences and let us know that he has an upcoming presentation. Unfortunately this won’t happen until after our expedition, when everyone has returned home. It would have been an exciting experience to watch.

Well, it’s getting late and Siggi has to leave so that he can get some rest. He did not stay with us at Midgard Basecamp.

After dinner we make use of the hot tub. As we change for dinner in our room, after the hike, it is decided that tonight, this will definitely happen. The male American photographer gives us the heads up that he may only use the sauna. Either way, we all look forward to using the amenities.

As we change for the hot tub, I bring up my struggle with the hike to my bunk mates. The Australian photographer tells us that he struggled a bit with the hike too at one point and put on a front as he saw that the other guys didn’t break a sweat. Then the photographer from Switzerland adds that it was not an easy hike and he too saved face as well. Sweet guys, I think to myself. Not sure if they are trying to make me feel better, either way it’s very cool of them.

It’s very dark outside. The crisp fresh air would bring life to any dull being that encounters it, especially half naked. I can barely make out the steam rising above the hot water that awaits me. I’m excited to hop in as my body is starting to feel the soreness creep in, especially once the cold hits it.

The photographers from Australia and Switzerland are already in the hot tub and warn me that the water is extremely hot. I awkwardly climb into the tub. It was very hot, yes, but perfect for how cold the air was. We are then joined by Thorsteinn. A few minutes later, Eydis and Benjamin joins us. We laugh quite a bit because of the fart noises the hot tub is making when there is not a lot of people sitting down in it. Eydis after a while sits in front of the drain and blocks it to stop the hilarious sounds from erupting. It’s definitely a funny moment.

We talk about the day’s events as well as the photographer from Switzerland playing the drums in his band. There’s also small talk. I sit there and absorb what’s being said as well as stare up into the night sky drifting off into the moment. This feels nice.

We end the night with another edit session, this time with Benjamin talking to us about the colors that appear in images. I won’t reveal any other info though. You’ll have to take one of his workshops!

We head to bed. It was a very productive and active day. I don’t even remember falling asleep.

Next Day 4: Third Day of the Winter Expedition - Crampons! Whaaaaat? More to come...

Winter Begins | Day 2: First Day Introductions and The Loss

I wake up early so that I can take my time getting ready to meet my expedition team at a hostel two blocks away from where I was staying. I had two bags. My photography bag and an oversized hiking bag that carried everything else. I find that with the basic toiletries and the right amount of clothing that can be reworn each day, like weatherproof pants, there’s less to carry. 

After another delicious and generous breakfast, I hike over to the hostel, going into the wrong building, up the elevator to a floor filled with rooms. It’s early and I’m still a little groggy but in the best of spirits. So I head back downstairs only to realize that I need to be in the building next door. As I reach the dining area, it’s apparent that I am in the right place. I see some rather familiar faces. There were smiles everywhere and tired eyes. One photographer from Australia, currently residing in Norway, was hyped up joking about getting us all coffee since he is a very skillful barista.

I see a pile of bags over by the windows and head over to place my bags there as well. It is obvious that the bags that were already there belonged to those in our group. On my way there, I see a huddled group of a few photographers standing and immediately recognized Benjamin Hardman, our host. He wore his iconic beanie and turtleneck wool sweater. I wave hello to everyone and smile then start shaking hands rather quickly, feeling awkward with my bags. Then I half walk off and turn back to shake Benjamin’s hand. I am here now, in the right place so I do not need to rush. I pause and say hello to him and tell him my name. I let him know that I am very excited to be here and to meet everyone. He smiles. Then, I head over to where the bags are.

Standing next to all of the bags by herself, half leaning on the bench under the window, was the mature female American photographer. I recognized her from a selfie on her IG account. Dark long curly hair. She’s from Massachusetts and stood about 5’1” in height. She looked concerned about something. Her first comment to me was about the two bags I carried. “Wow everyone only brought two bags?” she asked barely audible and looking at me. She was surprised that most of us only brought two bags compared to the four/five plus bags she brought. I smiled and mentioned to her that I don’t need much. That is when she realized and commented with a question “You’re American too?!” This seemed to put her at ease based on her body language and smile. I smiled back and responded yes. We said our hello’s and chatted for a bit. Then I moved on to join the others. I didn’t want to just sit over by the bags and isolate myself. I wanted to mingle and finally meet all of the other photographers that I barely got to know through their online introductions.

I saw that a few of the other photographers were in a half circle laughing and chatting each other up. I joined that conversation and chatted up our videographer Thorsteinn, who is Icelandic from the southeastern part of the country. He was very bright-eyed, fresh faced and full of energy, very personable. We chatted for a bit until the photographer from France joined in the conversation. He was tall and slender, maybe 6 feet or 6’1”. There were a couple of 5’10” and 5’11” guys there also. They were all tall. The photographer from France seemed shy but came across as very humbled and respectful in nature. Polite. He has this calming energy about him. Charming too.

Then there was another photographer from the U.S. that I introduced myself to. He was in college and came across as very mellow, quiet and laid back. When he did speak, he spoke with a very deep southern drawl, almost sounding like one of those smooth country western singers. As I watched him interacting with the others in the group, he appeared to be very actively listening and engaged, not skipping a beat on what was being said. This one is a good listener and he is very thoughtful and patient. I’m used to seeing people stepping all over the words of others out of excitement. I’m even guilty of doing it sometimes. He was as cool as a cucumber.

Siggi, our guide, arrived. His energy precedes him. Without being prompted, I look over my shoulder and see him with a huge smile on his face. He’s full of energy, filled with excitement and is as fit as fit! If we were in a dark cave to nowhere, this guy would light that cave up for miles. I watched him interact with the others and immediately recalled his response to my DM question about our return from the expedition. I had asked about when I should rent my car to go to Vík, the evening of the day we returned or the morning after. The best thing to do is to rent the car the morning after since we are not sure what time we’ll end up returning, he offered. I liked his energy.

I counted everyone noticing that we were missing two people. As I mentioned the night before, I surveyed everyone that should be in attendance, got to learn a little about them and where they are from so as to acclimate myself to meeting them. Ah yes, missing are the gentleman from Switzerland and the lovely Icelandic photographer who appeared to also be a model (extremely photogenic). We would find out later during our breakfast that he would not arrive until later and Eydis, the lovely Icelandic photographer, would be bringing him to our basecamp.

Benjamin wrangled everyone to sit down first asking if any of us were hungry. Some of us had already eaten before our arrival. Then we all introduced ourselves with our tiny bios. I introduced myself as a “wanderlusting bum”. The group laughed. It’s true, I freelance in television, not passing up any gigs, and when I can, I travel. Benjamin also thoughtfully asked us about our hopes for our dream shot. The female American photographer mentioned horses. The others were a little more vague but clearly wanted to get the most from this experience. I was a little abstract but specific, searching for scenery where black met blue. I wanted water, ice and volcano. I wanted to see arctic colors. Benjamin smiled and assured me that this was something we would see. I was truly excited!

Benjamin is very much like his Vlogs. He appears to be in a constant state of OM. At peace. He’s relaxed, well spoken and I really do believe that he is the type of person that will go above and beyond to provide a stellar photography learning experience. He pushes the envelope to see things unseen and things already seen, but in a different way. 

Dory and The Beast

After we talk and eat, only a few of us took Benjamin up on his offer to cover our breakfast, we break into two teams. I vie for “The Beast”, Benjamin’s arctic expedition vehicle. A white aggressive looking Rover. I’m in love. He warns us that it gets wet inside sometimes and it’s not the warmest, but I don’t care! I love the rugged look of it and the fact that there are those issues. A personalized, well weathered vehicle.

Siggi’s ride, Dory, is a massive, ginormous pickup with a cab. Impressive, but I have to admit I was not so excited about it since I see a lot of people in the U.S. driving around this kind of pickup truck, especially in the south (you’ll sometimes hear some people jokingly say its a show of testosterone). This is not why Siggi has Dory. She is a coveted expedition vehicle and one that has most likely saved many stranded people. She’s beautiful and safe.

We all loaded up in our vehicles. The Australian photographer rode shot gun with Benjamin, as I sat next to Thorsteinn in the back seat. The French, and the other two American photographers rode with Siggi. First stop, getting some snacks. I don’t buy anything because I’ve already purchased my arsenal of Oat King bars.

As we make our way to Hvolsvöllur, Midgard Basecamp, the place Siggi founded, which is also our overnight accommodations, we stop to shoot some amazing scenery. I ended up adding in my XQD card at one point, since my SD card was full (from shooting the day I arrived to Iceland and earlier today), taking some pretty cool images, especially of this one waterfall that leads into a bath of beautiful blue water. I see black and blue!

We finally make it to Midgard Basecamp. We dropped our bags at the front of the lodge and we all chill as Benjamin and Siggi arranged our accommodations. 

Midgard Basecamp is a cozy hostel that has everything you could ever want. There’s a restaurant, a lounge area, a TV room, and a bar. There’s even a hot tub and sauna! The staff is super welcoming and friendly, a very common trait in Iceland. There is another restaurant within walking distance on the nights that Midgard Basecamp’s restaurant is closed or if you are in the mood for something different, like ribs. Another much needed convenience is the gas station that is very close by.

As we relaxed and waited in the lounge area, there was small talk and personal reviewing of the day’s photos on our cameras. 

Benjamin and Siggi approached me about having my own room. They looked concerned. I’m not sure if it was because there was an overbooking and not enough rooms, putting me into a dorm by myself or with others not in our group or because it was assumed that we would all be comfortable sharing two hostel rooms between the ten of us. Apparently the other female American photographer requested private quarters, so I’m not sure if this set off our rooming arrangements. Could be anything.

One of our first stops on the way to Hvolsvöllur - captured by my iPhone

I’ve been on co-ed excursions where we’ve shared accommodations so it was a no-brainer for me. I’ve always been about team building and group activities so I let them know that if the gentlemen were okay with it, I would be fine if we all stayed in the same room at the hostel. There was a room that slept six with a privacy curtains on each bunk. One of the other photographers laughed and asked me if I would be okay with rooming with four dudes. I laughed realizing that it would be me at the disadvantage. Ha ha! I was totally up for it. Just one of the guys here and we are all respectable.

I’m so glad we ended up rooming this way. We were able to communicate with each other easily, share photography tips and talk about the day’s events. If someone is running late, we would know why and could let the rest of the team know. I also saw it as building camaraderie, I guess you can say. It seemed that Benjamin and Siggi were relieved and pleased with my decision. I am glad it was a simple issue resolved.

We all unpack and head downstairs to the lounge. Finally, we get to meet the other two photographers. The photographer from Switzerland and Eydis, the Icelandic photographer, who picked him up from the airport have arrived. Turns out he has his own band and is a drummer. He had a late performance the night before and the only available flight put him in after we needed to leave for Hvolsvöllur.

We sat in a circle briefly introducing ourselves again. Speaking next is the photographer from Switzerland. He’s tall, pretty confident and speaks with what almost sounds like a slight German accent. If I’ve heard correctly, he mentioned that he was originally from Basel, which boarders Germany. There they speak a dialect of German. Can’t remember. The photographer from Switzerland tells us about his travel from his performance and then admits that he has experienced one of Benjamin’s photography workshops. As confident as he is, his humility stood out. He admitted that he recently turned 36 years old. He seemed to be calling himself old at that age.

Then we heard from Eydis. She kept it short, sweet and to the point. She is an Icelandic photographer and was happy to meet everyone. Her smile is as warm and she is beautiful.

Most if not all of us dined on burgers, with the vegetarians of the group eating veggie burgers. Turns out Benjamin is a vegetarian. I think the female American photographer is also vegetarian. Thorsteinn and Eydis joined Benjamin on the veggie front. We all enjoyed our food.

Later that evening, Benjamin gave us a class on how he manages his images in Lightroom. This was all new to me. I’ve used Photoshop before and a friend of mine showed me how to manipulate images in DaVinici Resolve, even though it’s a video editing software. Benjamin mentioned for our purposes Lightroom is a tool he highly recommends. The male American photographer mentioned to me that he found it extremely useful as well. I let Benjamin know that I would make sure to download it. I have no regrets, thus far.

As we sat in the class learning, I realized that my SD card was corrupted and I lost all of my images that I took the first day I arrived to Iceland as well as everything I shot on it earlier today (which was the first day of our expedition), up until I popped the XQD card in. I was not able to recover anything. I told the male American photographer about my dilemma. He suggested a few other troubleshooting options. Nothing. I told him that I’ve made my peace with the loss and that I am sure I will get some other amazing images. I reformatted the SD card and hoped for the best and made sure that all images would go to the XQD card first. I was grateful that I captured some images on my iPhone to document the incredible landscape we saw today.

As I think about it, I realized it must have been that garbage card reader I purchased online. Moving forward I will go directly from my camera to my computer. Skip the middle man.

I didn’t download Lightroom that evening. It was late and we had a big day ahead of us. After our class, we headed to our bunks. Good night.

Up Next Day 3: Second Day brings two hikes. One that was quite savage for me. More to come...…

Winter Begins | Day 1: Arrival to Iceland

Highlands

I arrived at the hotel around 8:30am, after the bus driver from the airport directed me to walk in the opposite direction from which I should have been walking. I realized after four blocks that he sent me in the wrong way. It was only then that I thought to pull out my GPS. Duh! It was also very wet and rainy out. I wasn’t annoyed just a little groggy from the overnight flight. 

Once reaching the hotel, I was greeted by a very welcoming and cheerful staff. Super cool, super happy. It was still very early in the morning, so to be greeted this way was very much appreciated. 

In most cases check-in to any accommodations is around 4pm, which is kind of lame to me because we are paying for twenty-four hours, so I always wondered why they never pro-rated the hours for the check-in day. Either way to my surprise, my room was ready! I was grateful! (Kind of defeats my argument when this happens, huh?)

There was some kind of malfunction with the key card registering my room so they offered me breakfast downstairs while they resolved the issue. Again, I was very appreciative that they would be able to check me in so early and a nice warm breakfast buffet, out the rain, sounded great! The 15Kr cost of the breakfast was also well worth it.

I remember getting to my room and being pleased with it. It was extremely neat and clean. There was nothing out of place. The Nordic style hardwood floors with the matching wooden canopy bed is definitely my style. There was a fresh openness to the room that made me feel right at home.

I laid out my equipment to confirm, for a second time, that I had all of my gear and to see if I needed to make any additional purchases. 

I’m shooting with the LUMIX S1 for the first time in Iceland. It’s a larger mirrorless camera with some serious weight. The lenses follow this same spec as well. Impressive, but what do I know as a newbie? Maybe a heavier camera might be too aggressive for someone like me to be using on an arctic expedition? I had few opportunities to practice with it before, but it was in an urban setting.

I’ve gone out shooting with one of my closet friends on his Nikon Z6. I almost bought it from him (he was thinking about moving on to the Z7) until I was introduced to the LUMIX S1 during my last trip to Iceland. I like them both. But maybe I went ahead and got the LUMIX S1 because it was right in front of me and my ignorance got the better of me? So far, I am extremely pleased with no regrets. My only complaint is its weight. I am still kind of new at photography so I’m still learning the benefits of holding the camera a certain way. As much as the weight is a complaint, I also feel invincible holding it, especially in rainy weather and snowy conditions. It’s a tough and very solid camera! 

As I mentioned, it was super early in the morning when I got in to Iceland, so after surveying my equipment, and because it was still pitch dark outside at 8:30am (it looked like it was 8:00pm), I took a nap. Once I wake up, I can go for a stroll to get a few items that I think I’ll need.

After my nap, when daylight broke through my curtains, I decided to go for a walk down Laugavegur to specifically pick up a few things (one in particular, I am pretty embarrassed about, a European adapter. I should have known better). My LUMIX S1 was purchased in Iceland so I already had the right plug. I just needed it for my other electronics. The other items to buy, snacks for the expedition, a car charger (I was reminded by a shop owner that most if not all cars in Iceland are equipped with charger access via USB) and additional gloves, since I tend to loose them all of the time. Maybe I was just overly excited and would not admit it to myself.

I ended up picking up a Fjällräven® hat and some silk gloves. I loved the color and look of the hat and I could always use another one. The gloves were super soft and warm and fit perfectly under my photography gloves. I also purchased a MacBook Pro European adapter as well as a standard plug adapter.

I found this 24 hour mart looking for snacks and came across these oatmeal bars called Oat King Bars. I am hooked. They are delicious and very filling. I must have bought around 12 of them. Now, I am all set for the expedition.

I then went to a coffee shop and began making preps for a vehicle for the end of the expedition, as I planned to stay a couple of extra days to drive to Vík. I searched online before my trip to find a local car rental agency and there was one just up the street from where I was staying. I had a coffee and checked the rates online. After finishing my coffee, I decided to scout the actual location and get a better sense of how likely the rental agency would have a car for me on the day I needed it. I found the store front and spoke to one of the representatives, who was very charming and helpful. I didn’t book a car then but rather waited, since I was not sure what time we would return on our last day of the expedition. 

I ended up walking around Reykjavík and taking some photos city center and then down by the water. Time went by quickly and I wasn’t hungry, so I headed back to my room. As I walked and smiled at everyone I passed, my attention was caught immediately by singing that came from a bank across the street from where I walked. There were people exiting and entering the building, so I decided to head over and see who was singing. There was this platinum blonde guy climbing up on furniture, dancing and singing R&B music as well as rapping. Turns out that he is a very popular Icelandic vocalist giving a free show. His name is Audur. To correctly spell his name, you need the Icelandic “Eth” character where the “d” is, but my website will not recognize that character unfortunately. The crowd inside went crazy. I was intrigued. I stayed until the very end of his performance. I had fun listening and watching him. I was glad that I let my curiosity get the better of me. I would have missed this opportunity to see his performance. I continued on to my hotel.

I cozied up in my bed and decided to go through the profiles of everyone on Instagram that I would meet the next day. Benjamin Hardman, our host, had DM’ed us on one chain so that we can get to know each other before our actual meet up. I scanned each profile hoping to get a better sense of everyone. Some of the images previously taken by some of the photographers were absolutely breathtaking and I really looked forward to meeting everyone. I was super excited.

On the “Winter Begins” DM Benjamin told us a little about himself (as if we didn’t already know! How exciting though. I have to admit I was stoked!). Some of the other photographers were very humble and maybe even shy with their introductions. I phonetically spelled out my name, so that it would be pronounced correctly “Eye-Sha” letting everyone know that I was a beginner hoping to learn, and that I was looking forward to meeting everyone. We also met our amazing guide Siggi Bjarni. He was currently in Nepal. I was already intrigued once reading this. He seems very upbeat, positive and is obviously a trailblazer, creating an adventure tour company in 2010 at the mere age of 23 years old.

The ages of the other photographers ran from as young as 20 years old to possibly late 40’s early 50’s. Some introductions were short, sweet and straight to the point, others were vivid and upbeat, and one gave a very extensive, detailed introduction. So this was an exciting diverse group from all over the world. Cool!

For the remainder of the evening I did something that I rarely do, I watched TV. It was an exciting pass time for me (only when I visit other countries) because it was all in Icelandic. I listened closely as I watched, associating what was being said with the interaction between the actors/new casters. 

I was tired, yet filled with a flutter of excitement. I drifted off to sleep. 

Iceland

Winter Begins Expedition 2019

I’m always looking for adventure. Every now and then I will get stuck in the motions of day to day life and something will wake me up and remind me that we all only have one life to live as we know it. This happens more often than not and I feel super creative, energized, unstoppable and on top of the world! Then I’ll look around me and see the office “Debbie Downer” picking on everyone or the stressed out department head pushing personal anxieties on to the most relaxed person in the office, changing that person’s mood, and I have to ask myself, “What am I doing here? This isn’t me!”

Many of us have family members and friends that will try to throw a log on our tracks and scare us out of seeking the life we know we deserve. The life you know you were meant for. I have to believe that fear is what drives this. Sure they care about you, but it’s their fears, nurtured fears that they are projecting. If I listened to any of the noise, I would not have had any of the experiences I’ve ever had. If I made their fears my fear, I know exactly what I would be doing. Not knowing is what makes me feel alive and filled with excitement. It’s that refreshing feeling of jumping into a freezing cold shower and how it makes you feel afterward. Energized! “Everything you want is on the other side of fear” - Jack Canfield. I don’t know much about this person other than he is an author from Fort Worth, TX, but I agree with him.

So, recently I joined famed photographer, Benjamin Hardman, on his Winter Begins Expedition 2019, in the Highlands of Iceland…What an experience! This was the first of what will be many expeditions.

Here are the players:

Benjamin Hardman - Host & Photographer Extraordinaire

Siggi Bjarni - Icelandic Adventure Guide & Trip Leader

Thorsteinn Roy Jóhannsoon - Icelandic Videographer

Eydis Maria Olafs - Icelandic Photographer & Model

The French photographer

The male American photographer

The Swiss photographer

The Australian photographer

The female American photographer

And me…

More to come. :-)